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Home Improvement

DO YOU NEED A GENERAL CONTRACTOR?

According to a general rule , if your job requires more than three subcontractors, a general contractor may be a good idea. A general contractor can free you from such burdens as maintaining a work schedule, obtaining necessary permits, and resolving disputes with suppliers. He or she will have more leverage than you do with subcontractors, since you're only a one-time job. In a tight labor market, that could be important. A general contractor may get discounts at lumberyards and supply houses to which you are not entitled. Whether or not these savings are passed on to you or retained as part of the contractor's fee is something that should be covered in the contract.


EVALUATING BIDS

Industry groups recommend that you get a written estimate from at least three contractors. An estimate should detail the work to be done, the materials needed, the labor required, and the length of time the job will take. Obtaining multiple estimates is a good idea. An estimate can evolve into a bid--a more detailed figure based on plans with actual dimensions. Seeking more than one bid will increase your odds of paying much less. Once agreed to and signed by you and the contractor, a bid becomes a contract.

The cheapest bid isn't always the best. Homeowners who accept a rock-bottom bid may wind up less satisfied overall than those willing to pay more. One bidder may be using smaller-diameter copper tubing or cheaper tile. He or she may also be bidding on exactly what you say you want, without making it clear that your pre-World War II house may also need new wiring and water lines, which will cost extra.

Make sure all bidders are bidding on the same specifications and job description. Take the time to choose materials and fixtures yourself, since you may not always like or agree with the contractor's selections. The term "comparing apples and oranges" may well have been invented during the bidding process.

Know your plans. It can be costly to change job specifications after the work has begun. Revising your plans can add substantially to cost overruns, with changes resulting in lengthy delays. A less-than-straightforward low bidder is counting on these changes to make the job profitable.


NEGOTIATING A FAIR CONTRACT

A contract spells out all the terms of the work, helping you and the contractor minimize misunderstandings and wasted effort caused by poor instructions. It should include the contractor's name and address, license number, timetable for starting and finishing the job, payment schedule, names of subcontractors, and the scope of work to be done.

Other basic items include a specification of materials and equipment needed, demolition and cleanup provisions, approximate start and finish dates, terms of the agreement, and room for signatures and the date. Watch out for binding arbitration provisions that limit your right to sue in the event of a dispute.

An excellent addendum to a contract is the contractor's statement of what isn't included. This will include the assumptions the contractor has made about your job, such as that the existing wiring and plumbing lines are adequate, that the homeowner will pay for all trash removal, that the subflooring is sound, that the existing baseboards and window trim will be usable, and so on.

Do your homework and specify the materials and brand names of products, appliances, and fixtures to be used. The contract should also give the contractor the burden of obtaining building permits. Most municipalities have a building code; the person who obtains the permit is usually liable if the work doesn't come up to code.

It's common to pay for a project in stages over the course of the work, especially as key materials and supplies are delivered. Try to limit the down payment to 10 percent or less. Contractors who ask for a substantial amount up front may use your money to hire help to finish their previous job, leaving you to fume at delays. In some states, it's illegal to require large deposits. Some projects, however, require deposits on components that have to be made to order--kitchen cabinets, for instance. In such a case, a higher down payment may be required and justified.

Your contractor should agree to resolve problems that arise during the course of work rather than afterward. They might readily fix sloppy plastering or a leaky roof as soon as it's pointed out but be less willing to fix it later on. That's a good reason to hold back part of the final payment until after a job is completed. You can negotiate such terms and include them in the contract. Withholding the last 5 to 10 percent of the money for 30 days isn't an unreasonable stipulation.

Never make the final payment until you have obtained signed mechanic's-lien waivers or releases from all subcontractors and suppliers. These are basically receipts acknowledging payment for goods and services; they free you from third-party claims on your property in the event that you pay the contractor but he or she doesn't pay subcontractors or suppliers.


DOING IT YOURSELF

If you have a fairly uncomplicated remodeling project in mind and think you can handle it yourself, you will need three things:
Time. Unless you're experienced, chances are you'll take longer to do a job than a professional carpenter or plumber would. And, unless you're retired, you probably have something else to do eight hours a day or more during the week. This could dim some of your enthusiasm for a lengthy stint of after-work and weekend labor. If your project is in the basement, attic, or some closet out of the main traffic area, the extra time may not matter. But if you have put the kitchen or a bathroom out of commission, you could quickly find yourself working in a pretty anxious family environment.

Talent. Remember, you'll be doing something for the first time that a contractor has done many times. You'll take longer and probably make more mistakes than the professional. Most people underestimate the scope of a building task and overestimate their skills; try to be realistic in your appraisals of both.

Tools. Figure in the cost of new tools and mileage for trips to the hardware store in your project estimates. Most projects require specialized tools. Hanging a door, for example, needs a router, special bits, and setup jigs for both the hinges and lock sets.
If you have some doubts about your ability to handle a remodeling task by yourself but still want to be involved and save some money, consider hiring a contractor who will let you work with him or her as an unpaid assistant. That way you can take over some of the simple yet time-consuming tasks such as sanding, puttying, painting, cleaning up each day, or just holding up one end of a plank. Be sure to work out this arrangement with your contractors before they bid on the job. Some will welcome your help; others may not.

There are hundreds of good books dedicated to the do-it-yourselfer, offering step-by-step descriptions, drawings, and photos covering virtually any home project you may have. Check your local bookstore or library. There are also web sites that can offer you help. Search the National Association of Home Builders' web site (www.nahb.com) for the project you have in mind for step-by-step help.

 

'A house is no home unless it contains food and fire for the mind as well as the body.' --  (Sarah) Margaret Fuller

Home Depot's Cattlemen Road store employees cut carpet for a customer.

Kitchen remodels are among the most popular home improvements because they offer a great return on investment while giving you the opportunity to enhance and simplify your daily routines. If you're seriously considering a kitchen remodel, you've probably done a lot of research. You've paged through home decorating magazines, visited websites, and checked out the kitchen sections of the home improvement stores in town. One sure-fire way to increase your home's value, while giving your kitchen a new look is by changing the countertop and backsplash. Changing these can greatly increase both functionality and aesthetic appeal.
 

Chris from Sparkle Brite Pool Supply loads customers up with chlorine.

Cockroaches, Silverfish

Available Alternative Insecticides:

1. Sprays: d-Limonene (Orange Guard)
2. Solid or gel bait stations: abemectin & hydroprene (Raid Max Bait Plus Egg Stopper), boric acid (Harris Roach Control Tablets, PicBoric Acid, others), fipronil (Combat Quick Kill, Combat Roach Killing Gel), and hydramethylnon (numerous brands)
3. Dusts in crawl areas (cracks and crevices): boric acid (numerous brands)
4. Sticky Traps (numerous brands)

Fleas in the Home

Available Alternative Insecticides:

1. Dusts in carpet, pet bedding, upholstry: Borate (numerous brands)
2. Pet treatments:

shampoos - d-Limonene (numerous brands);
veterinarian prescribed spot on or internal treatments - fipronil (Frontline), imidicloprid (Advantage) and lufenuron (Program);
sprays and collars - methoprene (Precor).

3. Insect growth regulators sprayed in dry, shaded areas of yard to reduce flea population: methoprene (Siphotrol) or pyriproxyfen (Archer).

Caterpillars on Vegetables, Ornamental Plants and Lawns:

Biological insecticide: Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.) (Dipel, Safer Caterpillar Killer, Thuricide and others).  Follow label directions.

Fire Ants in the Landscape

Available Alternative Insecticides:

1. Mound drenches: d-Limonene (Citrex) or Pine Oil (Insecto 7)
2. Insect growth regulator or stomach poison baits (broadcast application):fenoxycarb (Award), hydramethylnon (Amdro, Maxforce, others), methoprene (Extinguish), spinosad (Eliminator).

Aphids, Soft Scales, Whiteflies, Mealy Bugs, Mites on Vegetables and Ornamental Plants

Available Alternative Controls:

1. Insecticidal Soap
2. Horticultural Oil


RECIPE: homemade Insecticidal Soap spray: KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN!
1 tablespoon of NON-DEGREASING liquid dishwashing detergent per gallon of water (Use of this recipe increases the risk of plant injury.  The degree of injury depends on the type of detergent used)

RECIPE: homemade Horticultural Oil spray:KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN!
1 tablespoon vegetable cooking oil (corn, soybean, peanut or sunflower) per gallon of water.  To increase efficiency, add 1 teaspoon of NON-DEGREASING liquid dishwashing detergent per gallon of water (addition of soap increases the risk of plant injury)

Fungal or Bacterial Disease Problems on Vegetables and Ornamental Plants
- typically prevented through proper cultural practices

Available Alternative Controls:
topical treatment only - NOT systemic or curative

1. Sprays: Copper sulfate
2. Dusts: Elemental Sulfur

RECIPE: homemade fungicide spray: KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN!
1 tablespoon baking soda and 1 teaspoon vegetable cooking oil per gallon of water.

Chinch Bugs in Lawns

Available Biological Control: Beauvaria bassiana (Naturalis T&O) beneficial fungus

Available Alternative Insecticide: Imidicloprid (Bayer Advanced Lawn) systemic insecticide

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Watch for our new energy efficient / hurricane impact window improvements: See story below.

OurTown50 Sarasota Green House  Project  begins to take shape with: MySafeFlorida Home Survey, FPL  Energy Survey, air duct remediation, extra insulation, 3 foot overhangs, low volume toilets and showers, polyfoam hurricane tile, tree canopies, compost bin, creek irrigation. Watch as this 1973 Sarasota Florida cypress front house transforms.  water and a solar electric grid.

Decorative finishes add texture, style and originality to any home. Here we take the mystery out of the techniques used by professional decorators and show you how to put mystique into your living space.

For the types of decorative finish discussed here, the process involves first applying an opaque base coat with an eggshell/satin sheen followed by layers of different color applied in a pattern or thinned as a wash. (Because flat paint is porous, it doesn't work well as a base coat for decorative painting, but it may be used as a topcoat.)

Either latex or solvent-based paint can be used, but you must use one type only. Latex offers the advantage of easier clean-up; however, alkyd paints slower drying time allows you more time to work the pattern before it hardens.

These are three types of popular finish techniques:

Sponging
Rag Rolling
Stenciling
 

Bob Bowker shown here has been selling furniture for over 50 years. In Sarasota he was with Robb and Stucky since they opened a store here almost two decades ago. We shall miss him.

Central air conditioners use electric energy to pump heat out of your home and dump it outside. They distribute cooled air throughout your house and remove moisture from the indoor air.

The efficiency of Central A/C units is governed by U.S. law and regulated by the U.S. Department of Energy. Every A/C unit is assigned an efficiency rating known as its seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). The SEER is defined as the total cooling output (in Btu - British thermal units) provided by the unit during its normal annual usage period divided by its total energy input (in Watt-hours) during the same period.

The SEER is displayed on a yellow label affixed to the A/C unit. Higher SEERs are better. The minimum SEER allowed by law for a central A/C is 10 for a split system or 9.7 for a single-package unit. The best available SEER is about 18, while many older units have SEER ratings of 6 or less. Most consumers should look for a SEER of 12 or higher when buying a new A/C system.

• Central A/C units are more efficient than window or through-the-wall units. They are also out of the way, quiet, and convenient to operate.
• High-efficiency A/C units save money on your utility bills.
• High-efficiency A/C units result in fewer environmentally harmful emissions.

Home Appliances:
* Among the 32 to 36 inch televisions the SONY's are highly rated.

* Dishwashers have gotten quieter and more efficient over the years. Spend $350 to $600, and you'll get one that effectively cleans a dirty load without pre-rinsing. For twice as much or more, you'll get a quieter machine, maybe cloaked in stylish stainless steel, with hidden controls. A dirt sensor found in many middle-range and high-end models is designed to adjust water use to the amount of dirt to be removed. Also increasingly common is a sanitizing feature that makes the water extra-hot and is supposed to provide a better wash. But remember that as soon as you touch a dish while taking it out of the dishwasher, it's no longer sanitized.

* Replacing an aging refrigerator may save you in electric bills, since refrigerators are more energy efficient now than they were a decade ago. The Department of Energy toughened its rules in the early 1990s and imposed even stricter requirements in July 2001 for this appliance, which is the top electricity user in the house.

* If you're outfitting your kitchen with a new stove, the array of choices will probably either delight or bewilder you. There's the choice of freestanding range (with oven included) or cook top (which requires a separate wall oven). But even before that choice, you'll need to decide on gas or electric--or both. If you have opted for an electric range, you face a choice of smooth top, in which a sheet of ceramic glass covers the heating elements, or traditional coil heating elements. Complicating matters is the fact that electric and gas models are beginning to share characteristics. Some gas models have electric warming zones and smoothtop surfaces (though they're under the burners, not above, as with electric smoothtops). More and more high-end models pair gas surface burners with an electric oven.